Well, here we are, back again, in the heart of Cape Breton Island. Originally the land of the Miꞌkmaq ("Mikmaw"), Cape Breton, along with Nova Scotia generally, had an early history of European settlement that involved a constant tug-of-war between the English and the French. Eventually, many Scots would settle here, as well as French, giving the communities today their unique mixture of Mi'kmaq, Scottish and French cultures. Today, Cape Breton Island is part of the province of Nova Scotia, from which it is separated only by the Strait of Canso, with a short causeway (the Trans-Canada Highway) connecting them.
Cape Breton is a land of sharp mountains, rolling hills, lake valleys and ocean. With a marine climate, truly, if you don't like the weather wait a minute...and it will get rainier.
We have one full day here before boarding the ferry onward to Newfoundland, and we wanted to do something locally that would be different than our visit to Cape Breton in 2018. Our campground hosts suggested that we hike to Uisge Ban Falls, in Uisge Ban Fall Provincial Park, close by. "Uisge Ban," which admits of various spellings, is a Gaelic word pronounced "ISSkee-ban" and means "white water." We were told that the falls should be dramatic after the recent Spring rains.
And so, this morning, before the predicted noon rain showers, we took off to see the falls. It was a chilly, damp 46F, so we dressed for the occasion:
The landscape surrounding Uisge Ban is a product of incredibly powerful forces which have shaped and reshaped the area over 5 billion years. Formation of the earth's landmass, tremendous volcanic activity, collision of continents, mountain-building, massive erosion and glaciation, have all played a role in shaping this landscape. The signage at the beginning of the trail explained this and gave us a clue what we would see on our hike.
As you can see in the photo above, the falls drop dramatically at the top and then run through cascades at the bottom. Uisge Ban drops 330 feet over a run of nearly half a mile. While most of Uisge Ban is a cascade, the uppermost section is a horsetail waterfall dropping 52 feet in multiple steps, with a pool between sections of the falls. If you want a sense of the power of the water roaring down the falls, here's a video of the whole length of the falls.
Kathy decided to brave the danger of the falls to pick up some pretty rocks, including some pretty gneiss schist -- or so she says.
As we continued down the trail, we finally encountered some other groups of local hikers. Evidently the Moms wanted a hike because it was early on Mother's Day morning, and no Mom in her right mind would be out hiking on Mother's Day without loving it. Or so we surmised.
Kathy got treated to a Mother's Day lunch of scrumptious lobster sandwiches on homemade bread, complete with whole milk lattes, at a local diner known, curiously enough, as Herring Choker Deli & Bakery.
We learned that "herring chokers" referred originally to Scandinavians who settled in the Maritime Provinces of Canada -- most especially in New Brunswick -- presumably because many of them fished for herring; but, now, the term generally refers to native residents of the Maritimes.
Well, if the landscape looks like this, and the hiking is like this, and the scenery is like this, and the cuisine is like this, where do we apply for Herring Choker citizenship?
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.