Damnable Trail - Net Point and High Tide Trails

Wednesday, July 19, 2023

Hi Blog!

On Tuesday, we moved from Bellevue Beach to the Shriners RV Park on the Eastport Peninsula. We made a quick run over to the Visitor Center for Terra Nova National Park to pick up a park map, trail guide and information on fishing in the park. Unfortunately, salmon fishing has been closed for the season, so it will just be trout fishing. That being said, with temperatures in the high 80s to low 90s, we may not be fishing this stay. In order to beat the heat, we decided to hold off on the long hikes in Terra Nova and do a couple short coastal hikes.

The Eastport Peninsula boasts an extensive trail network known as the Damnable Trail. Many of the trails in the Damnable Trail network are not new. Most of them evolved from old trails and footpaths that had linked communities for several generations. There is some speculation on the name of the trail system. As far back as the 1800s, “Damn the Bell” (Damnable) has been etched in the vernacular of the Eastport Peninsula. Whether it was a pirate who accidentally hit a bell notifying the British of their hideout, or a sailor trying to navigate through treacherous shores, “Damnable” describes the perseverance of the people who live here – a resilient determination to face any obstacle with your head held high. 

We picked two hikes, the Net Point Loop in Salvage and the High Tide Trail in Eastport. Between the hikes, we enjoyed lunch at Chucky's Seafood and Wild Game Restaurant in Happy Adventure.

Our Happy Adventure started bright and early to beat the heat.

On the way to the trailhead for the Net Point Loop, we stopped to watch several boats work their way around the various obstacles in the harbor. While not a lighthouse, a harbour light is always a welcome sight.

We stopped to admire Doctor's Pond. An old cemetery sits on the hill overlooking the pond. Not a bad spot to spend the end of your days.

Net Point was once a vital part of the inland fishery in Salvage. From this point, nets could be anchored to capture migrating salmon, herring and cod. It became so competitive, that anchor locations had to be drawn by chance. If you were lucky, you drew a good anchor spot. If not, better luck next year.

As we came down from the Net Point Lookout, we decided to take the side trail to Old Harry's Cove. Dave found a great hiking stick, just like the guy on the trail sign.

Even thought this was the sunniest part of our hike, the winds coming across the peninsula made it pleasant.

We stopped at this rocky outcrop because we could hear the water rushing in under the rocks. Try as we might, we could not find a way to actually see how far the water rushed in. The water pounding on the rocks made a weird echoing sound.

The trail to Old Harry's Cove isn't long, but it does go through the woods. The mosquitoes were just waking up when we got there. Needless to say, that was the fastest part of our hike. The wide open marsh with its pretty purple iris were a welcome site.

As we reached Old Harry's Cove, Kathy discovered a bell on a nearby tree. We later learned that there are 19 bells hidden in different sections of the Damnable Trail.

After a brief rest, we returned back from whence we came. Since it was mostly downhill, we made a quick run through the mosquito gauntlet. One last view of Salvage Harbour as we made our way back to the trailhead:

We had noticed this fishing stage on the way to Salvage and made a point to remember to stop and get a photo. Back in the heyday of cod fishing, there would have been dozens of these fishing stages lining the shoreline. After the closing of the cod fishery, many of the fishing stages fell victim to the weather. This one is still being used. It is one of the most Newfie things in Newfoundland.

We don't usually make reservations for lunch, but there are few restaurants at this end of the peninsula and it is the height of the tourist season. The drive from Salvage to Happy Adventure was not very long and we made it with five minutes to spare. The Happy Adventure Inn has five rooms looking over Powell's Cove. After two miles of hot hiking, we were both jonesing for a cold beer. There were several on tap, but we decided to try the Quidi Vidi Half Fancy Blueberry Milkshake Ale. It was hazy and reddish-purple in color with a frothy pink head. The blueberry added a little fruit flavor but it wasn't overwhelming. It was very refreshing on a hot summer day. For lunch, Dave went with a bowl of seafood chowder and cod au gratin. Kathy indulged in a cod fish burger with a side caesar salad.

After lunch, we drove around Powell Cove and gathered sea glass from a small beach opposite the Inn.

Before heading to our next short hike, we decided to drive over to Sandy Cove to check out the beach. They have a very unique comfort station.

The Eastport Peninsula touts three beaches as tourist attractions. Sandy Cove, the most scenic, is a light-colored beach of sand derived from the erosion of an ancient delta that forms the upland behind the beach. We watched the kids on the beach slide down the sand on plastic discs.

A nice breeze was coming off the ocean, so walking down the beach was pleasant. The clear water reflects the brilliant blue sky. We marveled at the various shades of blue, turquoise and teal.  It reminded us of our favorite beach in Key West, Florida, of all places!

On our return walk, we took our shoes off and walked along the water's edge. The average water temperature for the Eastport Peninsula is 51F this time of year! Cold doesn't even begin to describe the numbing effect of the frigid water. Remember, there are still icebergs floating around Newfoundland right now.

After cleaning the sand from between our toes, we laced up our day hikers and drove over to the trailhead for the High Tide Trail. The trail connects the Eastport Beach and the Northside Beach with a series of small boardwalks, rock hops and beach walks.

Even though it is called the High Tide Trail, the trail cannot be hiked at high tide. The water rushes in right under the boardwalk.

The rocks which are easy to traverse when dry become slippery and difficult when the ocean rushes in. 

 

The Damnable Trail is blazed with a yellow bell on shoreline rocks:

The Northside Beach was once a Provincial Park. It is now an ecological preserve. The undeveloped shoreline had just a few visitors compared to the other two beaches. Had the weather been cooler, we might have hiked to the other end of the beach. Maybe later.

By the way, Kathy did find another hidden bell. Two down, only 17 more to go!