Treena's Trail in Ship Cove

Sunday, June 4, 2023

Hi Blog!

After this morning's adventures with Ted (see previous blog), we drove over to Ship Cove to hike Treena's Trail out to Onion Head to see more icebergs. We learned from one of the locals we encountered that Treena was a local resident who died young from a brain aneurysm. The town renamed the Back of the Land Trail in her memory. Treena's Trail is a 7 km loop trail with excellent views. Because of Covid, the trail had not been maintained for a couple years. We had trouble finding the actual trailhead, as it was overgrown. Here we are celebrating our success at finding the trail.

After our hike, we heard from a local couple that most folks don't hike this section of the trail. They mainly drive their ATVs. Because of ATV traffic on the trail, the first part was muddy and rutted. The higher the trail climbed, the drier it became. 

This was our first look at Savage Cove. Once dubbed Anse aux Sauvages (Cove of Savages) by French seamen who had most likely encountered a Beothuk settlement in the area, the harbor was permanently settled in the 1830s by an English seaman named George Gaulton. The English seamen of the time had come to know the harbor as Savage Cove.

According to the hiking guide, we were to leave the ATV trail and follow a footpath over to the next cove. The small bridge over a small creek looked sturdy enough.

However, parts of the boardwalk across the bog needed some serious love.

Once we reached the headlands, we gave up trying to find the hiking trail. We were unable to find any of the trail signs or markers mentioned in the guide. Instead, we just followed the path of least resistance:  the ATV trail.

Wow! After days and days of wind, rain and fog, we didn't know what to do with such clear skies. The water was so blue and ice was so white. Out in the distance is Belle Isle, the current end of the International Appalachian Trail. However, plans are underway to extend the IAT/SIA through Labrador to Scotland, England and the rest of the countries that have remnants of the old Appalachian Mountains.

Where icebergs end up after calving from glaciers in Greenland is entirely up to the wind. Recent strong winds from the northeast have brought a number of bergs into the Strait of Bell Isle and down into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Our first look at Diable Cove.

A little bergy bit has landed at the entrance of Diable Cove.

We continue to hike up and down all along the headlands. Just outside of Onion Cove, folks have set up a viewing platform complete with rock cairn or inuksuk. In this photo, Kathy does her best impression of an inuksuk.

While not red chairs, a red bench is a welcome sight after hiking several miles.

Looking down onto the two homesteads in Onion Cove. The Adams family were the first recorded inhabitants of Cape Onion. William Adams arrived there in 1874 and constructed the original part of his house in 1890. His son, Henry, built the main part in 1910. Today, the houses in Onion Cove are Bed and Breakfasts.

Unlike the first part of our hike, the trails in later sections are easy to follow.

Down on the beach, we searched and found a few pieces of seaglass. We watched the little growlers and bergy bits bounce up and down on the tide. At one point, we even watched a small iceberg crack with a resounding clap of thunder and then break apart. The tough volcanic rock resists the constant wave action.

Ice comes in all shapes and sizes.

After reaching Onion Head, we worked our way back to the trailhead. We stopped to check out these old grappling hooks.

There were a number of artistic displays of sea treasures - bouys, nets, rope, etc. We thought the painted rocks were cute.

We saw this handmade sign under the speed sign, advising drivers to do the maximum speed "If U Dare," Now for those in the States, 60 km is about 37 mph. We slowed down and proceeded with caution. As it turns out, the road was lined with frost heaves. They're like speed bumps. Needless to say, we did not dare!

As we hiked through town back to the trailhead, we encounted a number of locals. We got loads of trail advice, learned a little history, got invited into a garage to see a pair of huge moose antlers, watched a roadside garden get planted and got to duck a Jeep. We can't wait for our next adventure!