Expedition! Quirpon Lighthouse Inn

June 6-8, 2023

Hi Blog!

We love lighthouses. Last time we were in Newfoundland, we visited several of them. However, we were not able to visit the Cape Bauld Lighthouse because it is situated on the headland of the northernmost point of Quirpon Island. It is not visible from the mainland. One has to arrange for a boat ride to see it. We just didn't have enough time in 2018 to make those arrangements. As we were planning our return trip this year, we learned that the lighthouse has been turned into the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn. When we planned this trip, we booked a two night stay during the time we are on the Northern Peninsula for the Iceberg Festival. 

Let the overnight adventure begin!

The weather gods have not been kind to us these past few days. A steady stream of rain and wind was blowing across the northern tip of the Northern Peninsula. While parts of Canada and the US are struggling with wild fires and smoke, we have had strong winds, rain and fog. We were told by the folks at the Lighthouse Inn to just wear all our layers for the Zodiac boat ride. Having done a couple hikes in the rain and fog, we came prepared.

Quirpon Island is 6.5 km (about 4 miles) long from north to south and has a maximum width of 3 km (almost 2 miles). It is located at the southeastern edge of the Strait of Belle Isle, south of Belle Isle. There is a tiny strait which separates the island from the mainland, however, the Inn is located at the other end of the island, which requires a 30 minute boat ride.

We met Captain Ed English at the Quirpon Dock. While they usually have a ramp for visitors to use, the unexpected heavy ice has kept them from putting the floating ramp in the water. We had to carefully make our way down a slippery ladder. That was just the beginning of our adventure.

Once we were all in the boat, we stored our luggage and donned rain ponchos. As we left the shelter of the harbor, the real fun began.

Ships are safe in harbor, but that’s not what ships are for. 

So set sail on the stormy sea of love. 

You’re going to get soaked at times, 

But at least you’ll know you’re alive.

 

Dan Millman

On a day like this, you have two choices: Hunker down and let the wind and rain blow over you; or stand and face the gale and ride the waves like a surfer.

Kathy stood her ground as Dave documented the journey. The payoff: the largest iceberg we have ever seen! 

 

Even those hunkered down had to stand up and take notice.

With the fog and rain, it was difficult to see much of the shoreline of Quirpon Island as we drove up the northeastern coast of the island. Captain Ed liked to sing a little to pass the time.

Comes a time when you're driftin'

Comes a time when you settle down

Comes a light, feelings liftin'

Lift that baby right up off the ground

Oh, this old world keeps spinnin' 'round

It's a wonder, tall trees ain't layin' down

There comes a time

 

Neil Young

He told us we could sing any sea shanty we liked, except the theme to Gilligan's Island! Of course, that just encouraged us to sing it.

The weather started getting rough,

the tiny ship was tossed.

If not for the courage of the fearless crew,

the Minnow would be lost,

the Minnow would be lost.

by Sherwood Schwartz and George Wyle 

As we came around the tip of the island, we could see our safe harbor ahead. We just had to get around those pesky icebergs.

Once we were all safely ashore, we took this photo of the zodiac tied to the dock.

Funny, those pesky icebergs don't look that big from up here.

The rain let up and the fog lifted slightly. We decided to walk to the lighthouse from the harbor. It felt really, really good to be on sold ground, even if it was a bit rocky and wet.

As we reached the height of land, we could see two of the really big bergs off in the distance.

We had learned that the first lighthouse built on Cape Bauld was built of wood and finished in 1884. In 1906, work began on a new lighthouse to replace the old wooden one. A cast-iron tower was shipped to the island and erected on a substantial concrete foundation. To protect and strengthen this tower, it was encased in cement and encircled with eight buttresses.

Look, Dave! There's the lighthouse:

The harsh environment at Cape Bauld takes its toll on structures, and after fifty years, the buttressed tower was starting to deteriorate. Rather than repair the old tower, a new octagonal concrete tower, which lacks the architectural flair of its predecessor, was erected in 1961, along with a new dwelling for the head keeper. Commercial electricity reached the station in 1966, and the fog signal, which had been converted from a steam plant to an oil plant in 1916, was replaced by an electronic signal in 1971.

While it may not have the architectural flair of other lighthouses, it was definitely a beautiful sight after bouncing over the wind whipped waves.

Ahoy, Mateys! The old sea captain welcomes visitors:

It didn't take long to kick off our boots and hang up our wet clothes. With glasses of beer and wine in hand, we joined our fellow travelers for a delicious dinner and evening of tall tales. We didn't bring the camera with us, so no eating or drinking photos. But, here is what our cozy common room looked like.

The Inn encourages folks to book a two night stay so you have a day to hike around the island and watch the whales and icebergs from the viewing platform. After a good night's sleep, we met everyone again for breakfast. A whole boatload of people were going back in the morning and we told them we would see them off before we began our hike.

We couldn't resist a lighthouse selfie, even in the rain:

Actually, it was more misty than rainy. The fog had lifted just enough so that we could take a few pictures. As we walked down to the cove to see the visitors off, we crossed a small bridge that traverses a crevice which is still filled with snow.

The shed and boathouse sit high above the cove.

We took shelter from the wind while we wait for our inn mates to join us.

The first to arrive (with help from Captain Ed and the ATV) were Ian, Jaclynn and Baby Eleanor.

Below, the Zodiac waits patiently just out of reach of the growlers and bergy bits bobbing in the cove.

One by one the our Inn Mates carefully made their way down the plank!

Said I'd like to know where, you got the notion

To rock the boat, don't rock the boat baby

Rock the boat, don't tip the boat over

Rock the boat, don't rock the boat baby

Rock the boat, don't tip the boat over

Rock the boat (woo)

by The Hues Corporation

We wished our friends a bon voyage and safe travels.

After a few smooth moves around the pesky bergs, the voyagers were lost in the mist.

We were a bit chilled by the time we started our day's hike to Pigeon Cove. We had a small ridge to climb on the way, and it warmed us right up despite the snowy patches.

The environment of the island reminded us so much of Denali National Park. The ground is mossy and spongy and the rocks are covered in lichen and small flowers.

Captain Ed told us that these rocks were the end of the International Appalachian Trail in Newfoundland. However, the logistics of ferrying people to the island, only to have them hike across and be ferried over to Belle Isle would be too much for his small operation to handle. So, the IAT in Newfoundland ends nearby, near L'Anse aux Meadows, at Hay Cove. So, now we can really say we hiked to the end of the IAT in Newfoundland!

There were parts of the trail that were clearly visible, while other sections required a little route finding.

When we reached the top of Pigeon Cove, we found ourselves back in the wind and rain. Discretion being the better part of valor, we decided to make this our turnaround. We did get to see a couple bergs before the fog rolled in.

One misty, moisty morning,

When cloudy was the weather,

I chanced to meet an old man clothed all in leather.

He began to compliment, and I began to grin,

How do you do, and how do you do?

And how do you do again?

Mother Goose

We hiked 2.5 miles, out and back. We made it back to the boathouse as the fog returned in earnest.

Before going back to the Inn, we walked down to see the Viewpoint building:

While there wasn't any view, we did get to sit in the big Muskoka chairs.

We joined our friends, Neil and Geri, for lunch, with whom whiled away the afternoon telling adventure stories while we awaited the next boatload of Inn Mates. We were expecting a big rowdy group; however, a party of 8 cancelled when they got to the dock and saw the boat was open to the wind and weather. They lost out on a great adventure. However, three new couples were brave enough to embrace the elements. 

 

And another evening was spent sharing adventure stories!

We had toyed with the idea of hiking to the south end of the island and getting picked up by Captain Ed as he delivered our Inn Mates to the dock at Quirpon, but the rain just was not letting up and we really didn't want to get that wet. After a hearty breakfast, we packed up and joined Neil and Geri for an ATV ride over to the boat dock.

Now that we were seasoned sailors, we quickly donned our life jackets and ponchos and prepared to set sail. While it was a little wavy leaving the harbor, the return trip was smooth sailing. Once we reached the dock, we wished Captain Ed calm seas. Neil and Geri made a quick stop at our RV to check into their flight, and were soon on their way.

It may take a few days to dry out all our clothes, but the memories of our epic high seas adventure will be forever preserved in this blog.