Gulkana Glacier and the Denali Highway

Hi Blog!

On Saturday, August 2, 2019, we left Valdez and headed back up the Richardson Highway. After taking the Tok Cutoff on the way into Alaska, we decided NOT to take it on the way out. This gave us an extra 100 miles to drive. Rather than drive all the way from Valdez to Tok, we scheduled a two day stop at Paxon Lake BLM Campground to break up the drive. While in the neighborhood, we decided to explore the Gulkana Glacier and the Denali Highway.

The Gulkana Glacier flows from the icefields off the south flank of the eastern Alaska Range. Here is our best view of the glacier.

On Sunday August 4, 2019, we started our day with a coffee walk to the shore of Paxson Lake. The campground's boat launch is the starting point for those floating the main branch of the Gulkana Wild and Scenic River.

After breakfast, we set out to find the Gulkana Glacier. All we knew was that a gravel road at Mile Post 197.5 would take us four miles to the base of the glacier. We'd have to hike rest of the way. We found the road easy enough, but Mother Nature didn't want to cooperate. A low cloud ceiling made it impossible to see the Glacier.

After driving as far as we could, we left Dusty behind to explore Phelan Creek.

Where the College Creek enters Phelan Creek was a hotbed of mining activity. We poked around the ghostly remains.

Once the mining operation shut down, the equipment was just abandoned where it laid.

Dusty keeps an eye on us as the clouds begin to descend on the peaks above. If we are not careful, we will soon be wet.

From our vantage point next to Phelan Creek, we can see all the way down to Summit Lake.

Kathy checks the sluice box, just in case they left something behind! :)

This valley was once home to an Alaska Pipeline campground. There are numerous trails criss-crossing the valley. We followed a few of them just to see where they went. We got a great view of the College Creek Canyon from this side road.

How can you not like lichen.

As Phelan Creek works it way down toward the Delta River, it becomes a large braided stream. We followed a well graded road until it stopped at a cliff along the river banks. After lunch, we bushwacked up stream to get a closer look at the sand dunes across the creek.

Since the weather wasn't conducive to hiking, we decided to continue our Jeep exploring by heading west on the Denali Highway as far as the paved road would take us. As we turned off the Richardson Highway, we passed the old Paxon Roadhouse. Since the 1950s, the Paxson Lodge has offered travelers a place to stretch their legs and fill up with gas and coffee. The lodge has served as a friendly outpost on the long drive over the Richardson Highway between Delta Junction and Glennallen. But, no more. It closed in 2013.

We followed the highway until the paved road ended at the Tangle River Inn.  It sits on a bluff overlooking the Delta River.  We got a great view north up the Delta River:

We filled up with gas and picked up some firewood. When we returned to camp, we made dinner over the fire.

This little gray jay was quite the beggar:

He tried to land on our tripod as we were cooking bison steaks. We were surprised he didn't burn his little feet. He continued to pester us during dinner. We took pity on him/her and left some peanuts on the picnic table. With each approach, the little jay scooped up three peanuts and proceeded to hide them in the surrounding trees. After several passes, the jay cleaned the table. Just another reminded that winter is coming!

Tomorrow, we head on to Tok to prepare for our journey across the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City. Until then, stay thirsty my friends.