ABOUT THE BROKEN SPOKE
Maybe the best way to describe the place is in the words of its owner, James M. White:
"In 1964, James White pondered what to do with his life after his Army stint. He loved country music as a kid and remembered the old Dessau Hall (with a tree growing in the middle of the dance floor), the Moosehead Tavern in Oak Hill and the Barn on North Lamar. James saw a need that he could fill.
"He liked a radio show called "Broken Arrow", liked wagon wheels and so the "Broken Spoke was named. On September 26, 1964 building started and on November 10 the "Broken Spoke" opened with 300 people there to see that it got off to a good start.
"By 1966 James was able to book his childhood hero, Bob Wills while other big names followed: Ernest Tubbs, Roy Acuff, Hank Thompson, Tex Ritter, Ray Price, Kitty Wells, Grandpa Jones, Willie Nelson and George Strait. While these stars have all moved on, Willie still stops in for chicken fried steak.
"James has displayed talent as a song writer and singer. The "Broken Spoke Legend" song which he wrote is on the Alvin Crow album "Pure country". His love for Country Music has graduated from singing in the shower and writing songs while driving down the road in his pick-up truck, to forming the Broken Spoke Company with Alvin Crowe, and to singing at the Spoke with many of the talented performers who have graced the Broken Spoke stage. He's been privileged to sing with Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, and Sons of the Pioneers just for starters, but he sings weekly with all the regular multi talented bands which play at the Broken Spoke.
"As part of the celebration of their 25th anniversary which was 10 years ago, the Spoke set aside a room for memorabilia called "The Tourist Trap Room" with photos, hats and other items related to Country music. The Broken Spoke is a Texas treasure and an Austin tradtion appreciated around the world and has been featured many times on Austin City Limits, a famous TV show on PBS. The Spoke has some of Austin's very best local talent such as Alvin Crow, Gary P. Nunn, Sam and Son, better known as The Geezinslaw Brothers, Don Walser, Jerry Jeff Walker, The Derailers, Jimmie Dale Gilmore, Chris Wall, and Dale Watson just to name a few. James likes to pride himself on continually booking the best acts that represent the true music that is live Country band music. Some of his new acts which y'all shouldn't miss are Cowjazz, James Hand, Chaparral with Jeff Hughes, and Ed Burleson.
"When you walk underneath that big old oak tree out front, you throw that front door open on this red rustic old building, you're at the Broken Spoke, the last of the true Texas dancehalls.
"The Broken Spoke is Texas' most definitive dance hall. It's not of those fly-by-night, trendy newcomers you see springing up in out-of-business lumber yards or feeds stores on every corner. You can't build a legend overnight. Owners James and Annetta White have been operating the Austin tradition since 1964 and its reputation for good country music and good Texas cooking has spread world-wide.
"Back in the sixties, the Spoke played host to countless country super stars and legends. George Strait, Ernest Tubb, Roy Acuff, and even Bob Wills tipped their hats from the stage at the far end of this old dance hall.
"Willie Nelson started playing at the Spoke before he moved back from Nashville when he still had a crew cut and a sport coat - before he brought braids and tennis shoes to the forefront of country fashion. In fact, it's not a bit unusual to stumble into the Spoke on a Friday or Saturday night and find the Red-Headed Stranger kicked back against an amp, picking with whatever band is the featured entertainment of the night. It's no secret that the Broken Spoke is one of Willie's favorite hang-outs when he's home in Austin.
"Through the years, James and Annetta have opened their doors and welcomed to the stage a pretty impressive list of aspiring musicians. George Strait and his Ace In The Hole Band cut their teeth in the music business playing by the neon lights of the beer signs in the Spoke. A wide variety of country superstars from Kris Kristofferson to Kitty Wells have jumped up on that stage and carried on the tradition of good country music that the Broken Spoke is famous for.
"It is a favorite hang-out of most of Austin's "real" country musicians. Don't call 'em "Hat Acts," around here...the hats you see on stage at the Broken Spoke are as traditional as the music echoing off the walls.
"James White likes to tell a story about another Texas legend, Davy Crockett: "yeah, old Davy came through here on his way to fight at the Alamo and he liked what he saw. He said, 'James, don't change a thing 'til I get back.' And we haven't changed it - and we're not gonna change it."
"Although the Broken Spoke isn't quite as old as the Battle of the Alamo - it captures the mystical charms that makes Texas worth fighting for all over again. There isn't anything fancy in the red rustic old dance hall. After your inside, be sure to check out James M. White's tourist trap room with all its memorabilia of country music. And as James always says, "We ain't fancy, but we're damn sure country." Ya'll come!"
AFTERNOON WALK IN THE BARTON CREEK GREENBELT
We noticed that the Broken Spoke was just a short walk from the Barton Creek Greenbelt, a spectacular streambed (dry this time of year) cutting through sheer limestone cliffs. It was only about a quarter mile from the Broken Spoke, so, after having a beer at the dance hall to check it out and legitimize parking our truck there, we headed over to the Greenbelt.
Here's Kathy in the dry streambed as we entered it from the cliffs on the left:
This is a pretty representative shot of the limestone cliffs themselves:
We only had about an hour and a half, so we walked out 45 minutes and retraced our steps. The trails were barely marked at all, and there were a variety of formal and informal trails leading all directions, so we had to be careful to remember our path. But we made it out and back with no foibles. We even ran into some trail runners and dog walkers taking advantage of this first warm, sunny afternoon after a week or two of cold, wet weather.
DINNER AND A LISTEN TO LOHMANS CROSSING
Back at Broken Spoke, we tucked into scrumptious Texas country cooking. We were joined by one of the place's regulars:
Around 6:00 pm, a local country band, Lohmans Crossing, started a two hour performance. Here's a short short video clip and this is a photo of the band:
Here's a video of the band members explaining what they do, and here's a link to their free music downloads on ReverbNation, including Dave's favorite, "Black Coffee."
The band's repertoire was very diverse, with bluegrass, country, Texas swing, zaydeco, New Orleans and other styles popping out without warning. Lefty played a mean washboard. We'd definitely look for another opportunity to attend their concerts!
TEXAS TWO-STEP DANCE LESSONS
As if dinner and music weren't enough, we moved on over into the dance hall to take two-step lessons. They were conducted by the owner's daughter. She and a young partner demonstrated some moves, then she (VERY PATIENTLY) worked with every one of the 25 couples, giving us pointers about how to do the basic two-step. She even threw in a couple spins or twirls, so that we could legitimately swing when we dance the two-step.
We had a blast, but we learned quickly that we need practice!
DOING THE REAL THING TO A REAL TEXAS DANCE BAND
Finally, around 9:30, we wrapped up by taking turns on the floor to a song or two by the dance band, led by Jesse Dayton.
Here it was, after 10:00 pm, and for old fogies like us, it had been a long day. We fell into bed after 11:00 and slept very soundly, anticipating heart-shaped pancakes:
HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY!
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