Up and Down in A'Town

Today the weather was a little fairer.  While the sky was still heavily overcast, no rain was expected, so we planned a walking visit in Anacordes, Washington.  Anacordes is a former lumber, fishing and seafood canning town nestled on Fidalgo Bay, an arm of Puget Sound north of Seattle.   The name "Anacortes" is a blending of the first and last names of Anna Curtis, who was the wife of Amos Bowman, a railroad surveyor and farmer who was the founder of the town and an early Fidalgo Island settler.  Settlement peaked in the 1850s due to the Fraser River Gold Rush and in 1890 due to speculation that the area would become a terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Later the island became an important fishing and lumber center.  Fidalgo island is named after the Spanish explorer and cartographer Salvador Fidalgo who explored the area in 1790. The eastern point of Fidalgo Island, on which Anacortes rests, is known as Cap Sante (or "Cape Health").

Today, Anacortes is home to some shipbuilding, a yacht club, and a booming tourist economy. Tucked away in its neighborhoods are some very charming and well kept-up homes, an interesting mixture of Victorian houses with gingerbread touches, and modest seashore cottages remodeled into year-round homes.

We parked the truck near the marina and wandered over to look at the boats.  Our first view was looking through the docks toward Cap Sante:

It looked as though the marina would host a boat show this weekend, so we had a chance to see interesting yachts - some for sale:

We stumbled upon the W. T. Preston, an old flat-bottomed, wood-fired sternwheeler steamboat that had plied the waters of Puget Sound:

The W. T. Preston was the last sternwheeler to work in Puget Sound and is one of only two snagboats remaining in the contiguous United States. Snapboats removed navigational hazards from the bays and harbors of the Sound and from its tributary rivers.  There is a colorful little story about the W. T. Preston.  In 1951, it and two other sternwheelers, the Skagit Belle and Skagit Chief, decided to race. One of the other boats was known to be the fastest of the three ships, but despite this, the W. T. Preston surprised everyone by trouncing the other two boats.  While there was a trophy for the winner, its physical awarding had to be delayed because the trophy had already been engraved with the name of the expected winner, and the crew of the W. T. Preston had to wait to receive the trophy until it could be re-engraved with the winning boat's name.

Here's an archival photo of the three sternwheelers racing, with the W. T. Preston steaming ahead on the right:

After learning all about the sternwheeler days, we walked on around the shore of Cap Sante:

Spring has come to this area, and, everywhere we went, we smelled the rich perfumes of spring blossoms.  Here, Kathy is getting wrapped up in such thoughts:

Eventually, with some climbing, we reached the top of Cap Sante.  Here, Kathy looks out over Padilla Bay, Fidalgo Bay and the town of Anacordes - known to the locals as A'Town:

You can share a sense of what Kathy saw by watching this 360-degree video of A'Town and the Bay.

We decided this wasn't a half bad spot for a selfie and so we tried it:

We decided to walk back down to town through the neighborhoods, and at all turns we encountered beautiful spring blooms:

Residential neighborhoods merged into shipbuilding realms.  Here, the "Sally Ride" was in drydock for repairs:

We worked our way back to the center of town and stopped at Adrift, a local seafood restaurant that comes very highly rated on Yelp and otherwise:

We weren't disappointed.  Here, Kathy enjoys a Hefeweizen while waiting for her crab au gratin.  (David had a hearty cioppino).

After lunch, we did a little shopping for gifts for people we'll be visiting in the coming week or two, and drove slowly home because our tummies were too full to drive fast.

Eddie & George (Finally) Wake Up in Burlington, Washington

It stopped raining and the boys finally crawled out of their den.  They couldn't decide where to wake up, so Eddie, being the Good-Time-Charlie that he is, chose this cool playground, and George, being the Outdoorsman-at-Heart that he is, picked this rustic Kids Kabin.  They saw their shadows, so that probably means 6 more weeks of rain.

Heritage Flight Museum

Hi Blog!

Today is Thursday, April 14, 2016. It is our first full day in Burlington, Washington. The boys (Eddie and George) decided to sleep in this morning. It's raining and they don't like to get their fur wet. They may wake tomorrow or they may sleep for the next week. It all depends on Mother Nature. While in this area, we are trying to visit with all our Washington relatives before we cross the border into Canada. However, we had some chores to do this morning, so no relatives today. We asked Trip Advisor to find something fun in the Burlington area we could do after our chores. One suggestion was the Heritage Flight Museum. Since it is raining (surprise, surprise) a museum would be a perfect diversion.

Founded in 1996 by Apollo 8 Astronaut Major General William Anders, the Heritage Flight Museum is a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation and FLYING of historic military aircraft. The Museum is located at the Skagit Regional Airport in Burlington, WA. These are not just historic relics. Theses birds actually fly! Here are some of our favorites.

Mash Copter - The Army first acquired a militarized version of the Bell 47, now called the H13, in 1946. It was the first helicopter to enter into military service in large numbers, and first in combat in Korea. The Army began the practice of naming their helicopters after Native American tribes with the H13 ‘Sioux’. Of course, we remember this bird from the TV show MASH.

Hog Wild - Built in 1942, this T-6D was one of several sold to the Spanish Air Force as a trainer and attack aircraft. It was brought back to the USA in 1991 with several other T-6’s and returned to flying service in 1992. Look closely at the cockpit for the wart hog the plane was re-named after.

PT Stearman - The PT-13 was produced in numbers by Boeing Aircraft from 1936 to 1944. It originally flew on November 26, 1934.  The PT-13 was typical of the biplane primary trainer used during the late 1930’s and WWII.  Can you say, "Snoopy and the Red Baron"? Today, this bird only flies in the summertime. We can certainly understand why, it might be a tad chilly in an open air cockpit.

P-51 Mustang - "Val-Halla" - The P-51 was the “100 day wonder” of WWII.  Originally specified and ordered by Great Britain, the aircraft was designed and built by North American Aviation from the ground up in 100 days.  Built in 1945, this aircraft is believed to have served in the Texas Air Guard and with the Indonesian Air Force.  “Val-Halla” reflects the the colors of the 57th Fighter Interceptor Squadron, the Black Knights.  This is the squadron Bill Anders flew with, back in 1958.  Anders raced this plane, taking third in the Unlimited Class Silver race. Val-Halla was the Viking name for heaven.  On 30 July, 1941, Andrew Flying Service sold the aircraft to the Underground Flying Club, Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii.

The Pearl - On 30 July, 1941, Andrew Flying Service sold the Interstate Cadet shown below to the Underground Flying Club, Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii. Since all civilian flying was grounded in the Hawaiian Islands for the duration of World War II, it wasn't returned to civilian service until April 24, 1946. This type of plane was flown by Cornelia Fort, the first of the WAFS killed in the line of service. Cornelia taught flying lesson over Pearl Harbor before the Japanese attack. As her student was flying the aircraft to the runway at John Rodgers Airfield, she had to take control of the aircraft to avoid being rammed by one of the attacking Japanese planes!

Ambulance - This Dodge half-ton 4x4 G505 was built in 1941. It was the first Dodge all-military design developed in the build-up to World War II.

MIG-21 - Not every one has a Russian fighter jet in their backyard. This supersonic jet fighter was built in 1959. It is the number one most produced supersonic jet aircraft in aviation history, the most produced combat aircraft since the Korean War, and the longest production run of a combat aircraft. More than 10,000 MIG-21s have been built. You can actually buy one on the internet if you would like your own.

Glacier Aviation operates out of the same building as the Heritage Flight Museum. They specialize in training helicopter pilots, but they also offer helicopter rides. If the weather had been nicer, we may have taken a spin around the neighborhood.

We really enjoyed walking around checking out all the planes. What made this museum different from the other air and space museums we visited is that all of these planes actually fly. In fact, on the third Saturday of every month, they take a few out for a spin. We are hoping to get back on Saturday to see which of the birds fly! Stay tuned.

Biking With George & Nancy

Hi Blog! Today is Thursday, April 12, 2016. It is our last full day in Kelso, Washington. Our friends, George and Nancy, are on their way to Tacoma and stopped by for a visit. Here we are, all decked out for a bike ride.

After several hours last night of catching up, eating, drinking and generally making merry, we decided we should get out and about today to make up for all our indulgences. Our campground sits at the northern terminus of the Coweeman River Trail, which follows a dike on the west side of the Coweeman River for 4 miles. (Sorry Nancy, we really thought it was only three miles to the end!) Just as we started our ride, this great blue heron stopped and posed for us.

The girls led the way. While the beginning of the ride is very pretty along the river, much of the trail is not the most scenic; it did provide some exercise. After passing the three mile mark, Nan and Kathy turned around.

The boys powered on the last mile despite the strong headwind and loose gravel at the south end of the trail to reach the Cowlitz River.

The boys were soon reunited with the girls at the Fiesta Bonita Mexican Grill & Cantina. What can I say, when fellow Boomers get together?  Silliness can't be far behind.  Somos todos muy locos!

All that pedalling builds up a powerful appetite. Dave is trying (unsuccessfully) to keep Kathy from stealing his (very delicious) lunch.

As we make our way up to Alaska, it's likely that our itineraries will have us leap-frogging with George and Nancy.  We might even share some time on the Kenia Peninsula with them.  In any event, we hope there will be many more fun times with them. Stay tuned!

Hiking the Lewis River Trail

Our time in southwestern Washington is running out, and we wanted to find a long dayhike that is emblematic of the Cascades Mountains.  We did some research, and found the Lewis River Falls Hike on the website of the Washington Trails Association.  At 8.8 miles, it was about the right length, and it has all of the features we were looking for.

The trailhead was a 2-hour drive from our RV, which is longer than we like, but we felt it would be worth the longer drive if the payoff was grand enough.  Grand it was!

The Washington Trails Association introduces the hike with the following:

To hike the lower section of the Lewis River 

is to step into a different world, 

populated by fantastic patches of old­growth fir and cedar 

in a shadowy section of the Gifford Pinchot. 

The Gifford Pinchot National Forest comprises 1.32 million acres spread along the western slopes of Cascade Range from Mount Rainier National Park in the north to the Columbia River in the south. It straddles the crest of the South Cascades of Washington State, spread out over broad, old growth forests, high mountain meadows, several glaciers, and numerous volcanic peaks. The forest's highest point is at 12,276 ft. at the top of Mount Adams, the second tallest volcano in Washington State, after Rainier. It includes the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.

The Lewis River is a prime fishing river and flows dramatically through the Cascades.  Hydroelectric dams impound it twice to create Yale Lake and Swift Reservoir, huge lakes that offer unlimited recreational opportunities to local residents.  The glacial green water of the river and lakes adds to their dramatic beauty.  Here is a view of Swift Reservoir:

We started our hike at the Lower Lewis River Recreational Area, near the Lower Lewis River Falls. The Falls are spectacular. At a 43 feet high and 200 feet across, they are larger in person than photos may lead you to believe. On the near side is a churning trough which gathers most of the water flow, and there are several viewpoints to capture the scene from.   This view shows the entire falls, but it is so far from them that it doesn't convey the size or power of the falls:

To get an idea how large the Lower Lewis River Falls is, check out this video of the Lower Lewis River Falls.

Hiking upstream from the lower falls, we encountered lots of white and purple trillium, which are the harbingers of Spring!

Several creeks and small streams feed into the Lewis River, and we had a chance to enjoy them as we crossed them:

A mile and a half upstream lie the Middle Lewis River Falls, a river­width combination of a waterfall and a cascade of water sheeting along bedrock.  When we reached it, Kathy found the marker sign, fallen and abandoned near the trail.  So she thought it would be appropriate to hold the sign in front of the falls:

That photo also fails to give you an idea what the Middle Lewis River Falls is all about, so, again, check out this video of the Middle Lewis River Falls.

This entire section of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest is replete with old growth fir and cedar trees.  Here is one old fellow that was so tall we couldn't even get him into a single photograph:

The river is hemmed in by large cliffs of volcanic rock, on which luxurious moss, lichen and ferns grow.  We encountered this little hanging garden-and-waterfall alongside the trail:

Here, Kathy inspects a much larger cliffside hanging garden:

Here is yet another feeder stream we crossed:

About 2.5 miles upstream, we arrived at the Upper Lewis River Falls, which are 58 feet high and 175 feet across.  There are several spots from which to view these falls, but the most dramatic is an observation point right beside the falls, where we ate our lunch.  The point is drenched with spray from the falls, to the point that the wooden fence and sign marking the falls are rotting away:

But the falls themselves are extraordinarily dramatic.  Here is a video of the Upper Lewis River Falls.

The hike back is never quite as dramatic as the hike out, which is all about discovery.  However, the hike back gives you a chance to look again from a different perspective at things you first saw on the walk out.  It also occasionally gives you views you didn't see the first time around.  For example, on our hike back to the trailhead, we caught this fetching view of Lower Copper Creek Falls as it tumbles 32 feet toward the river:

This was Sunday, the last day of Spring Break for students in this area, so we encountered many hikers on the trail, including families with kids.  Yet, even at such a heavy time for hiking, the trail was never crowded and we had all our "falls moments" to ourselves.  Even our lunch at the prime viewing spot for the upper falls was in splendid quietude!

This hike is not to be missed if you visit the Cascade Mountains in southern Washington.  We don't believe we've ever encountered so many dramatic waterfalls in a single hike anywhere else in our travels.

Roll On, Columbia!

Green Douglas firs where the waters cut through. 

Down her wild mountains and canyons she flew. 

Canadian Northwest to the ocean so blue, 

Roll on, Columbia, roll on!

On Wednesday, we explored where the Mighty Columbia's flow crashed into the not-so-Pacific Ocean.  Today, we decided to take a closer look at the Lower Columbia River.  The weather was forecast for temperatures over 80F, so we thought this would be a perfect hike for the day.  As it turned out, the brisk ocean winds blowing upsteam kept us cool all afternoon long and we never really felt hot from the sun.

We found the Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge for White-Tailed Deer, downstream from Longview on the Washington side.

The Refuge was established in 1972 to protect and manage the endangered Columbian white-tailed deer, which were federally listed as an endangered species in Washington and Oregon in 1967, but then recently delisted from "endangered" and categorized as "threatened" because the herds have rebounded due to federal conservation efforts, particularly in this refuge.  Today, about 300 Columbian white-tailed deer live on the refuge.  The rare and elusive subspecies is only found in the wild near the Lower Columbia River of the Pacific Northwest, which gave the animals their name, and near the valley floor of the Umpqua River Basin. Lewis and Clark noted this species of deer in their journals in March 1806 when they were in this area.

The refuge contains over 5,600 acres of pastures, forested tidal swamps, brushy woodlots, marshes, and sloughs along the Columbia River.  The refuge also serves as habitat for a large variety of wintering birds, a small herd of Roosevelt elk, river otter, various reptiles and amphibians including painted turtles and red-legged frogs, and several pairs of nesting bald eagles and osprey. 

We picked the refuge because it has over 6 miles of hiking trails and also includes shoreline of the Columbia River.  The Columbia River part was a major, pleasant surprise!  Here is a photo looking downstream from the refuge, with some low-hanging, misty clouds on peaks on the Washington side of the river:

This view looks upsteam and catches a lone kayaker plying his way up the shoreline.  We wouldn't want to try to paddle upstream against the Columbia River currents this far down the river!

The refuge boasts a beautiful, remote, empty beach, graced by birch and fir trees and some dramatic driftwood:

We walked upstream to the end of the spit and took a selfie back downstream:

Small clams dotted the beach, and we found one with a ladybug buddy sunning herself on his clammy shell:

Kathy found a slab of Ponderosa Pine bark that she claimed as her own, but since we were in a national wildlife refuge (and, not incidentally, we have no room in our RV), she had to leave it on the beach and content herself with a photo:

Here is a panoramic view of the Columbia River (to the right), an estuarial river (to the left) and a lone log sitting on a spit of sand in the center:

After exploring the river and the beach, we started down a trail into the heart of the refuge.  We learned that the longest interior trail was closed to hikers because it is the fawning season for the deer, and the internal trail runs right through their bedding grounds.  So we took a trail out along the estuary.

Eventually, we found a nice spot along the river for lunch:

The estuary itself boasted many water birds, including innumerable geese, great blue herons, ducks and various smaller shore birds.  Here, a flock of geese is going for a swim in the tidal pond:

The refuge is laced with rivers and what appear to be old agricultural drainage canals.  These form perfect habitat for migrating birds.  The following photo gives an idea what this area looks like:

Although we were only about a half hour's drive downriver from Longview, we felt like we were out on a wild, unspoiled section of the river and its tidal wetlands.  We saw another pair of hikers, a pair of bikers, the kayaker, and a friendly woman with an even friendlier puppy.  But, otherwise, we were alone and able to enjoy the wildlife without noise or bother.  We watched the fishermen in their boats, some barges steaming upstream, and one or two pleasure boats.  But, otherwise, the Mighty Columbia was ours for the day!

Discovering the Corps of Discovery in Astoria

Hi Blog! After spending a couple days in the Cascade Mountains visiting Mount St. Helens, we decided it was time to head west and see the coast. We are camped in Kelso, Washington, not far from the Columbia River. We decided to follow the Columbia out to the Pacific Ocean. We opted to drive out on the Oregon side of the river and back on the Washington side. Our destination was Astoria, Oregon. Situated near the mouth of the Columbia River, the city was named after the American investor John Jacob Astor - great-grandfather of John Jacob Astor, IV, who died on the Titanic, and among the wealthiest men in America.

All along our drive, we kept seeing signs for the Lewis & Clark Trail. We decided our first stop would be the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. The federal park began as Fort Clatsop National Memorial which was established on May 29, 1958. After reaching the Pacific Ocean, the Corps of Discovery built Fort Clatsop in the winter of 1805–1806. The park contains a replica of Fort Clatsop and preserves several canoe landing sites on what is now called the Lewis & Clark River.

The Corps of Discovery was a specially-established unit of the United States Army which formed the nucleus of the Lewis and Clark expedition that took place between May 1804 and September 1806. The Corps, which was a select group of volunteers, were led jointly by Captain Meriwether Lewis and Second Lieutenant William Clark. Commissioned by President Thomas Jefferson, the Corps' objectives were both scientific and commercial – to study the area's plants, animal life, and geography, and to learn how the Louisiana purchase could be exploited economically.

After watching a great documentary on the Corps of Discovery, we headed outside to explore the fort. On the way, we ran into Sacagawea. The daughter of a Shoshone chief, she was kidnapped by the Hidatsa and sold into slavery to the Mandan who passed her on to Toussaint Charbonneau, a French fur trader, who made her his wife. On February 11, 1805, she gave birth to a son named John Baptiste. Lewis described Toussaint as a man "of no particular merit," while both captains acknowledged the indispensable service Sacagawea provided the Corps of Discovery.

As we hiked out to the fort, we passed through a typical Oregon coastal rainforest. Annual precipitation varies from 60 inches in some parts to up to 120 inches, with higher amounts coming in the higher elevations. All that rain produces more shades of green than you can imagine. Here Dave takes a moment to admire a fallen comrade.

Because of all that rain, the original fort no longer exists. Several reproductions were made. This latest example was constructed in 2005, after its predecessor burnt down. It is hard to imagine that over 35 people called this little tiny fort home.

The Park Service used William Clark's floor plan with actual dimensions as noted on an elkskin cover of one of his journals. This is a replica of Lewis and Clark's room in the fort.

After arriving at the mouth of the Columbia River, the Corps of Discovery scouted around for the best spot to build their fort. They settled on a site two miles up the Netul River, now known as Lewis & Clark River. This is the area where the canoes came ashore. Despite all of the logging in the area, the landing sites still remain.

As with all great outings, it left us wanting more. On the way back to the truck, we discussed the possibility of following Lewis and Clark's route across the country. Since we are on our way to Alaska, it will have to wait for next year or maybe the year after that. The more we RV, the longer our RV bucket list gets!

Our next stop was the Astoria Column. The tower was built in 1926 with financing by the Great Northern Railway and Vincent Astor, another great-grandson of John Jacob Astor, in commemoration of the city's role in the history of the Astor family business. Patterned after the Trajan Column in Rome, the Astoria Column was dedicated on July 22, 1926.

The Astoria Column was designed to celebrate three historic events: the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain Robert Gray; the end of the Lewis and Clark Expedition; and the arrival of the ship Tonquin, which built Fort Astoria. Each of these events contributed to the states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho and parts of Montana and Wyoming becoming part of the United States. After climbing the 164-step spiral staircase to an observation deck at the top of the 125-foot tall column, this was the reward for our effort - a 360 view of the Oregon and Washington coast!

In the picture below look just over our heads to see the U.S. 101 bridge that connects Oregon and Washington. Just beyond the bridge to the left of it are the north jetty and south jetty. The empty space between is the Columbia Bar - a system of sand bars and shoals that create tremendous waves and just love to catch passing ships. Since 1792, approximately 2,000 large ships have sunk in and around the Columbia Bar, and because of the danger and the numerous shipwrecks, the mouth of the Columbia River acquired a reputation worldwide as the Graveyard of the Pacific. It looks peaceful from this distance.

Thanks to a tip on TripAdvisor, we stopped in the gift shop at the base of the column and bought a balsa wood glider to launch from the top. Here, Kathy gets set for take off. She's aiming for the bed of Great White!

The glider made a beautiful looping flight right into the waiting arms of a young boy running around catching all the gliders the dozens of tourists tossed off the top of the column. Lucky for us, Kathy wrote our names on the glider wings. As soon as we made it back down, the young man ran up to us and asked if we were "Dave and Kathy" and handed us our glider! Here the pilot and plane are happily reunited.

Climbing columns can build up a powerful thirst. After a quick check on BeerAdvocate, we discovered that Rogue Brewery has a Public House right on the Columbia River. Instead of having lunch down BY the river, we could actually have lunch ON the river. Here is the view as we arrived at Pier 39. We sampled six of their beers and brought home three more. We also discovered smoked salmon chowder. We will definitely add that recipe to our repertoire!

Our final stop brought us to the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Just as we parked the truck, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley came by. To avoid the expense of installing trolley wire, support poles and electrical substations, the electric motors of the trolley are powered by a diesel generator mounted on a trailer that the trolley car pulls when westbound and pushes when eastbound. What a great idea!

As we wandered around the Columbia River Maritime Museum, we learned a lot about the Columbia River. For example, it's huge - 1,243 miles long. Its drainage basin is roughly the size of France and extends into seven US states and a Canadian province. As a big river, it has lots of uses - salmon fishing, logging, shipping and power generating.

One of the most amazing features of the Columbia River is the Columbia Bar. In order to leave the river channel and head out into the ocean one must first find a way across the bar.

Unlike other major rivers, the current of the Columbia River is focused like a fire hose. Conditions can change from calm to life-threatening in as little as five minutes due to changes of direction of wind and ocean swell. The Coast Guard has a huge presence in the area. The seas are so rough here they had to develop a rescue boat that could roll over and right itself! Crewmen have to be belted and tied in at all times! All commercial ships entering and leaving the river must pick up a bar pilot to help them navigate through the ever changing conditions. Our truck, Great White, got a chance to chat with a retired bar pilot vessel. In order to get the pilot aboard the freighter or tanker, a little boat is launched and drives up next to the big boat and the pilot has to climb up a ladder! Great White said, no thanks, I'd rather pull a 5th wheel up South Pass!

We finished our adventure with a lovely drive back up the Columbia River on the Washington side. It was a little hillier and not as developed as the Oregon side. It was a great day on the coast and we look forward to the day when we can travel the entire length of US 101 from the Washington Coast all the way down to Southern California. However, we are going to Alaska this year! That RV wish list just keeps getting longer.

Until next time, stay thirsty my friends.