Discovering the Corps of Discovery in Astoria

Hi Blog! After spending a couple days in the Cascade Mountains visiting Mount St. Helens, we decided it was time to head west and see the coast. We are camped in Kelso, Washington, not far from the Columbia River. We decided to follow the Columbia out to the Pacific Ocean. We opted to drive out on the Oregon side of the river and back on the Washington side. Our destination was Astoria, Oregon. Situated near the mouth of the Columbia River, the city was named after the American investor John Jacob Astor - great-grandfather of John Jacob Astor, IV, who died on the Titanic, and among the wealthiest men in America.

All along our drive, we kept seeing signs for the Lewis & Clark Trail. We decided our first stop would be the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. The federal park began as Fort Clatsop National Memorial which was established on May 29, 1958. After reaching the Pacific Ocean, the Corps of Discovery built Fort Clatsop in the winter of 1805–1806. The park contains a replica of Fort Clatsop and preserves several canoe landing sites on what is now called the Lewis & Clark River.

The Corps of Discovery was a specially-established unit of the United States Army which formed the nucleus of the Lewis and Clark expedition that took place between May 1804 and September 1806. The Corps, which was a select group of volunteers, were led jointly by Captain Meriwether Lewis and Second Lieutenant William Clark. Commissioned by President Thomas Jefferson, the Corps' objectives were both scientific and commercial – to study the area's plants, animal life, and geography, and to learn how the Louisiana purchase could be exploited economically.

After watching a great documentary on the Corps of Discovery, we headed outside to explore the fort. On the way, we ran into Sacagawea. The daughter of a Shoshone chief, she was kidnapped by the Hidatsa and sold into slavery to the Mandan who passed her on to Toussaint Charbonneau, a French fur trader, who made her his wife. On February 11, 1805, she gave birth to a son named John Baptiste. Lewis described Toussaint as a man "of no particular merit," while both captains acknowledged the indispensable service Sacagawea provided the Corps of Discovery.

As we hiked out to the fort, we passed through a typical Oregon coastal rainforest. Annual precipitation varies from 60 inches in some parts to up to 120 inches, with higher amounts coming in the higher elevations. All that rain produces more shades of green than you can imagine. Here Dave takes a moment to admire a fallen comrade.

Because of all that rain, the original fort no longer exists. Several reproductions were made. This latest example was constructed in 2005, after its predecessor burnt down. It is hard to imagine that over 35 people called this little tiny fort home.

The Park Service used William Clark's floor plan with actual dimensions as noted on an elkskin cover of one of his journals. This is a replica of Lewis and Clark's room in the fort.

After arriving at the mouth of the Columbia River, the Corps of Discovery scouted around for the best spot to build their fort. They settled on a site two miles up the Netul River, now known as Lewis & Clark River. This is the area where the canoes came ashore. Despite all of the logging in the area, the landing sites still remain.

As with all great outings, it left us wanting more. On the way back to the truck, we discussed the possibility of following Lewis and Clark's route across the country. Since we are on our way to Alaska, it will have to wait for next year or maybe the year after that. The more we RV, the longer our RV bucket list gets!

Our next stop was the Astoria Column. The tower was built in 1926 with financing by the Great Northern Railway and Vincent Astor, another great-grandson of John Jacob Astor, in commemoration of the city's role in the history of the Astor family business. Patterned after the Trajan Column in Rome, the Astoria Column was dedicated on July 22, 1926.

The Astoria Column was designed to celebrate three historic events: the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain Robert Gray; the end of the Lewis and Clark Expedition; and the arrival of the ship Tonquin, which built Fort Astoria. Each of these events contributed to the states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho and parts of Montana and Wyoming becoming part of the United States. After climbing the 164-step spiral staircase to an observation deck at the top of the 125-foot tall column, this was the reward for our effort - a 360 view of the Oregon and Washington coast!

In the picture below look just over our heads to see the U.S. 101 bridge that connects Oregon and Washington. Just beyond the bridge to the left of it are the north jetty and south jetty. The empty space between is the Columbia Bar - a system of sand bars and shoals that create tremendous waves and just love to catch passing ships. Since 1792, approximately 2,000 large ships have sunk in and around the Columbia Bar, and because of the danger and the numerous shipwrecks, the mouth of the Columbia River acquired a reputation worldwide as the Graveyard of the Pacific. It looks peaceful from this distance.

Thanks to a tip on TripAdvisor, we stopped in the gift shop at the base of the column and bought a balsa wood glider to launch from the top. Here, Kathy gets set for take off. She's aiming for the bed of Great White!

The glider made a beautiful looping flight right into the waiting arms of a young boy running around catching all the gliders the dozens of tourists tossed off the top of the column. Lucky for us, Kathy wrote our names on the glider wings. As soon as we made it back down, the young man ran up to us and asked if we were "Dave and Kathy" and handed us our glider! Here the pilot and plane are happily reunited.

Climbing columns can build up a powerful thirst. After a quick check on BeerAdvocate, we discovered that Rogue Brewery has a Public House right on the Columbia River. Instead of having lunch down BY the river, we could actually have lunch ON the river. Here is the view as we arrived at Pier 39. We sampled six of their beers and brought home three more. We also discovered smoked salmon chowder. We will definitely add that recipe to our repertoire!

Our final stop brought us to the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Just as we parked the truck, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley came by. To avoid the expense of installing trolley wire, support poles and electrical substations, the electric motors of the trolley are powered by a diesel generator mounted on a trailer that the trolley car pulls when westbound and pushes when eastbound. What a great idea!

As we wandered around the Columbia River Maritime Museum, we learned a lot about the Columbia River. For example, it's huge - 1,243 miles long. Its drainage basin is roughly the size of France and extends into seven US states and a Canadian province. As a big river, it has lots of uses - salmon fishing, logging, shipping and power generating.

One of the most amazing features of the Columbia River is the Columbia Bar. In order to leave the river channel and head out into the ocean one must first find a way across the bar.

Unlike other major rivers, the current of the Columbia River is focused like a fire hose. Conditions can change from calm to life-threatening in as little as five minutes due to changes of direction of wind and ocean swell. The Coast Guard has a huge presence in the area. The seas are so rough here they had to develop a rescue boat that could roll over and right itself! Crewmen have to be belted and tied in at all times! All commercial ships entering and leaving the river must pick up a bar pilot to help them navigate through the ever changing conditions. Our truck, Great White, got a chance to chat with a retired bar pilot vessel. In order to get the pilot aboard the freighter or tanker, a little boat is launched and drives up next to the big boat and the pilot has to climb up a ladder! Great White said, no thanks, I'd rather pull a 5th wheel up South Pass!

We finished our adventure with a lovely drive back up the Columbia River on the Washington side. It was a little hillier and not as developed as the Oregon side. It was a great day on the coast and we look forward to the day when we can travel the entire length of US 101 from the Washington Coast all the way down to Southern California. However, we are going to Alaska this year! That RV wish list just keeps getting longer.

Until next time, stay thirsty my friends.