San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park

Monday, February 5, 2024

Hi Blog!

On Sunday, a strong storm front moved through the Florida Panhandle with lots of rain and wind. We kept an eye out for the tornado warnings, but they were all for towns north of where we are camped. While most of the rain has passed, it was very cloudy and cool, not the best weather for hikes, bikes or paddles. So, we decided to drive over to St. Marks and explore the San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park.

Before we could begin our journey through time, we needed to fuel up. We stopped at the Riverfront Cafe right on the banks of the St. Mark's River. This has to be the largest tiki bar we have ever visited. Under it's thatched roof is a large stage, two different seating areas, a wrap-a-round bar, boat docks and a separate floating back bar. Just the kind of place that would feel right at home in Key West. As for lunch, Dave had a blackened fish sandwich with fries while Kathy slurped down a Florida style gumbo with potato salad on the side.

After lunch, it was just a short drive over to the State Park.

After paying the $2.00 entry fee, we watched a well made movie on the history of the park. Afterwards, we strolled around and checked out some of the artifacts they dug up during the construction of the museum.

At the junction of the Wakulla and St. Marks Rivers, Fort San Marcos de Apalache in western Florida was the site of three Spanish forts. In three different time periods, Spain occupied this river junction at present-day St. Marks to protect its trade routes and its claim to Florida.  The Spanish named the fort after what they called the San Marco river, which flowed by the fort, and the Apalachee people, who occupied the area before the Spanish built the fort.

The park museum sits on top of the site of an old U.S. Marine hospital. The original stone foundation is still visible. When you first approach the museum, it looks like a giant stone fortress. In addition to being a Florida State Park, Fort San Marcos de Apalache is also a National Historic Landmark.

This tiny point of land changed hands at least 8 times in just under 500 years. When the Spanish first arrived in 1528, Apalachee people lived, farmed, fish and hunted on this point. It wasn't until 1679 that the Spanish built the first of three forts here. Along the Wakulla River, the Spanish built a bastion with limestone rubble. In order to protect the structure, the park service placed a wooden wall around the old structure.

The site of the bastion provides a commanding view of the Wakulla River.

Seven different flags have flown over this tiny point: Spanish (1565), British (1763), Spanish (1784), U.S. (1845), Florida Territory (1860), Confederate (1861) and U.S. (1865). The site was even attacked by pirates in 1682. However, there is no record that the pirates ever flew the Jolly Roger over the point. Arrgh.

The first two forts the Spanish built were wooden forts. The first was burned by pirates and the second was destroyed by a hurricane. In 1739, the Spanish started building a stone fort. This part of the exterior wall had four small room.

The "bombproof" is the largest section of the fort that is still visible. The four large rooms were over 17 feet high. It was built to protect men and supplies during an attack.

When Spain ceded Florida to the U.S. in 1857, troops were sent to occupy the fort. In 1860, the troops were withdrawn and the Territory of Florida took over. However, in 1869, with the end of the Civil War, the U.S. took back the fort and used stones from the Spanish bombproof to construct the foundation of a sailor's hospital.

From the site of the bombproof, we walked a short ways out to the very point of the point.

This was the site of the very first Spanish fort. From this point, we could see small boats on both the Wakulla and St. Marks Rivers.

We could even look back up the St. Marks River and see the thatched roof of the Riverside Cafe!

Here Kathy makes her way out to the point of the point.

When Florida seceded from the Union in 1861, the Confederates built Fort Ward on the site. Fort Ward kept St. Marks and the upriver town of Newport secured until the Union took control again in 1865. You can still see various Confederate earthworks all around the park.

Confederate cannons were placed on top of the old Spanish bombproof. Behind the bombproof was a large mound of soil heaped around a storage space that housed the gunpowder for the cannons.

For 100 years after the end of the Civil War, the San Marcos de Apalache fort site was in private ownership, accessible only by boat, and overgrown by vegetation. In the 1960s, the historic site became a National Historic Landmark, and Florida bought the land to turn it into the San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park. The State filled in part of the marsh that separated it from the mainland and built a road, Canal Street, as well as a parking lot, museum, and public amenities for park visitors.  An incredible amount of work to save a tiny point in history.

It was astounding to us that this little piece of land changed hands among so many nations, and that its history reflects the history of occupation of southern North America.

Who would have thought?