The Enola Low Grade Trail - Part 2

 Sunday, May 23, 2021

Hi Blog!

After a weekend of music, BBQ, friends and family, we needed a little exercise. We decided to head out and explore another section of the Enola Low Grade Rail Trail. This time, we went all the way to the western end in Manor Township on the Susquehanna River. 

The trail starts at the Turkey Hill Nature Preserve.

The Turkey Hill Hiking Trail, which we did not take, begins at the Manor Township trailhead of the Enola Low Grade Rail Trail and quickly climbs and traverses along a ridge above the Susquehanna River. Scenic vistas abound, but two scenic overlooks bookend the trail at its northern and southern-most extensions. Perhaps we will come back to this area and explore the Turkey Hill Trail, but today the Enola Low Grade Trail was calling us.

There is plenty of parking at the trailhead. In the distance, two large wind turbines sit atop Turkey Hill. The Turkey Hill Dairy partnered with PPL Renewable Energy and the Lancaster County Solid Waste Management Authority to install the two General Electric wind turbines at the Frey Farm landfill neighboring its Lancaster ice cream and sweet tea plant. The turbines stand 262 feet high with blades 135 feet long. We could actually hear them whir as we pedaled by.

As soon as we left the trailhead, we got our first glimpse of the Susquehanna River.  At 444 miles long, the Susquehanna is the longest river on the East Coast of the United States. It forms from two main branches: the North Branch, which rises in Cooperstown, New York, and is regarded by federal mapmakers as the main branch or headwaters, and the West Branch, which rises in western Pennsylvania and joins the main branch near Northumberland in central Pennsylvania.

There were multiple rail lines up and down the Susquehanna River Valley. The Enola Low Grade Trail was part of the Atglen-Susquehanna Rail Line that was latter consolidated and taken over by the Pennsylvania Railroad. The caboose was built in 1947 for the New Haven Railroad which merged with Penn Central and eventually worked for Conrail before being retired. It has been restored to look just like a caboose that Atglen-Susquehanna used.

Just below the Enola Low Grade Rail bed is an active rail line. We were able to look down on top of a freight train as is lumbered by.

In order to create the less than 1% grade needed for this rail line, rock was blasted out from the sheer cliffs and piled up in the valley below. In 2018, a large portion of the cliff crashed down, blocking the trail and taking down power lines. There were 15 people trapped on the trail until the rescue crew could turn off the electricity to the dancing power lines.

There are three waterfalls that cross under the trail:  Mann's Run, Fisherman's Run and Fry's Run. We stopped to explore Mann's Run.

Upstream is a pretty little waterfall. With temperatures in the 90s and full sun, it was quite a treat to step off trail and feel the cool mist coming off this little brook.

In order to protect the other rail line below, an aqueduct was built which carries the stream under the upper tracks and over the lower tracks. The water just cascades off the end into the Susquehanna River. It is a popular place for the boaters to stop on a hot sunny day. While we couldn't see the kids playing in the waterfall, we could hear their giggles as they splashed each other with the cold spring water.

Each section of the Enola Low Grade Trail is managed by the Township that owns the right-of-way. Here in Manor Township, they have done a great job finishing the trail surface, creating viewing platforms to take in views of the Susquehanna River. They have also restored a number of switch houses along the trail.

We stopped to take in this view of the Safe Harbor Dam, a concrete gravity dam, with an associated hydroelectric power station. It is the most northerly and last of three Great Depression-era public electrification projects' hydroelectric dams, and was constructed between April 1, 1930 and December 7, 1931. It created a long and relatively shallow lake, known as Lake Clarke.

Just beyond the dam, the Conestoga River empties into the Susquehanna. The last couple miles of trail are presently closed while the trail bridge over the Conestoga River is repaired. However, after 5 miles in direct sun with temperatures in the 90's, we were fine with turning around and finding a nice shady spot to eat our lunch.

On our way back to the trailhead, we noticed a few things we missed on the way out. Check out the view down this old set of stairs. Now, imagine yourself the switch operator whose job it was to go up and down all day setting the switches on the different rail lines!

As we admired the sheer cliffs along the trail, we noticed several pitons, carabiners and climbing ropes. This area is known as a Safe Harbor Climbing Area. Because of the railroad, access to these cliffs had historically been contentious and restricted. Once the railroad right of way was turned over to Manor Township and the Enola Low Grade Trail work finished, Manor Township opened the crags to climbing (at your own risk, of course). 

As we mentioned earlier, the trailhead starts at the Turkey Hill Nature Preserve. On our way home, we drove right passed the Turkey Hill Dairy. While the visitor center was closed, we did stop to chat with a couple of the mobile ambassadors!

On our way back to camp, we stopped at Muddy Run Park to check out the kayak launch. If the weather cooperates, we hope to get in a paddle before we leave. Stay tuned.