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Thursday, September 27, 2018

Fort Michilimackinac

When we visited Mackinac Island yesterday, we learned that Fort Mackinac had been relocated by the British to the Island from its site at the present Mackinaw City in order to make it more defensible.  We also learned that the British had won the original fort from the French as a result of the French & Indian War (also known as the Seven Years' War).  This made us curious about the original fort.

Today, we had a chance to visit the site of the original fort.  While the British had burned what remained of the fort when they moved it to Mackinac Island, and most of it was buried by sand over time, archaeologists began to investigate the site in 1959.  Eventually, the State of Michigan provided for the reconstruction of the fort on its original site based on historic records and the information uncovered by the archaeologists.  The fort was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960.

The site was impressive as we approached it.  A re-enactor dressed as a French voyageur, his canoes behind him, greeted us as we approached the entrance to the fort:


The fort was as much a stockaded village as it was a military outpost.  The community consisted of a number of houses, and St. Anne's Church.  It was the center of fur trading and other commerce in the Great Lakes Region throughout the late 18th Century and early 19th Century.


One of the most interesting features in the fort is the site of the powder magazine.  Because the magazine's roof caved in while it was being burned, the structure of the magazine actually survived the burning by the British, and much of it still remains.  It has been preserved and is displayed for visitors to see, as if they were standing in the original powder magazine itself:


Many of the residences have been furnished just as they might have been during the time that the fort was active:


There is even a bread oven that could have been used in the original community:


We climbed the steps to the palisades and walked around the circumference of the fort.  On the north wall, we could get a good view of the Mackinaw Bridge, crossing the Straits of Mackinaw to the Upper Peninsula:


We got another look at the "Mighty Mac" bridge from one of the bastions, where a cannon stands guard:


The setting of the fort is gorgeous, and the weather was spectacular, which lent brilliant color to the scene:


From the ramparts, we could get a good view of the rowhouses and their gardens:


Not far from Fort Michilimackinac, we could walk to the Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse.  Built on Mackinaw Point, it marks the junction of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron.  The tower and attached keeper’s dwelling were both constructed of Cream City brick, trimmed with Indiana Limestone.  We found it to be one of the most unique lighthouses we've seen:


After exploring some of the history of this area, we found a great brewpub for lunch.  Bière De Mac Brew Works provides a wonderful cuisine along with original beers that are excellent examples of their styles.  We particularly liked the Mackinac Platter, which we shared.  It boasted cured meat, smoked fish dip, tavern cheese, beer mustard, strawberries, grapes, olives, pita, crackers and warm flatbread.  These delicacies went well with our beers and left us happy and ready to take on our next challenge --


Touring the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Mackinaw Icebreaker!


She is known as the “Queen of the Great Lakes” and “The Largest Icebreaker on the Great Lakes.”  She was built as part of the war effort during World War II to meet the heavy demands of war materials and transportation during the winter months.  Decommissioned in 2006, she now resides at her namesake home of Mackinaw City, Michigan.

The icebreaker is open to touring by the public.  We had a chance to walk throughout the ship, including crew berthing quarters --


-- the engine room --


-- and other areas such as the mess hall, the captain's quarters, and the open decks.  We had a look over the bow --


-- and over the stern:


Many stops along our self-guided tour had video explaining the ship, her duties and the experience of serving aboard her. 

The Icebreaker Mackinaw was decommissioned in 2006 and moved to her current berth, where she now serves as a museum.  The crew that we spoke with insist that she is still seaworthy and could do the job today, but is too expensive for the Coast Guard to operate cost-efficiently.

We felt grateful that the icebreaker has been preserved to help us learn about the work of U.S. Coast Guard icebreakers and the importance they have to Great Lakes commerce.  Now it's time to move on, deeper into the Michigan U.P. to learn more about the Great Lakes and this beautiful northern boreal environment.

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