The weather came in last night. Today, Tuesday, August 22, 2018, was by turns foggy, misty, rainy, and just plain cloudy. While it wasn't fit out for our normal outdoor activities, we thought it should be a good day for touring the South Shore, on either side of Hubbards, where we are camped.
We started east to check out Peggy's Cove, a very popular tourist destination. We discovered a quaint fishing village perched in a landscape that resembles Newfoundland more than any other place we've seen in the Canadian Maritimes. The little harbor was just big enough for the fishing boats arrayed on its shore:
One of our quarries was the Peggys Point Lighthouse, an active light which marks the eastern entrance to St. Margaret's Bay. It is perched on a huge swath of golden granite. In the mist and rain, we could barely make out the bay beyond the lighthouse.
Working our way back westward from Peggy's Cove, we poked into Indian Harbour to get a closer look at its lighthouse, perched on Paddy's Head Peninsula. It has helped boats from wrecking on nearby Wreck Island as they attempt to find their way into Indian Harbour:
Lunenberg is another big tourist mecca on the South Shore. Originally inhabited by the Mik'maq, it received French Acadian settlers in the 1600's. In the Great Expulsion of the mid-1800's, the English began replacing the French settlers with English immigrants. Ultimately, many Germans settled in the community, and the town was ultimately named "Lunenberg" in honour of the King of Great Britain and Ireland, George August of Hanover, who was also the duke of Braunschweig-Lüneburg. Old Town Lunenberg, shown in the photo below, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 and boasts many historic buildings:
We stopped into a seafood house for some very tasty seafood chowder, then began our walk around Old Town Lunenberg. Several masted schooners, originals and reproductions, were berthed at the waterfront. This one was the Theresa E. Connor. Behind her is Bluenose II, a reproduction of the famous racing fishing schooner which won international competitions for Canada several years in a row:
The only historic building open to visitors is the Knaut-Rhuland House, named for two of its original owner-occupants. It also operates as a living museum of how such houses were furnished in various periods from its construction in 1793. Look closely in the photo below and you'll see Kathy waiting to greet visitors:
No Canadian Maritime blog entry is complete without at least one lighthouse and one church. This church is the second oldest church in Nova Scotia -- St. John's Anglican Church, which was constructed in 1840 and expanded and renovated over the years:
By now, the afternoon was upon us, and we thought we should make a last stop at a local craft brewery -- Saltbox Brewing Company, in Mahone Bay. Kathy sampled a flight of their beers, but David went straight for a pint of their very tasty Hefeweizen, known as:
We lingered long enough to enjoy a brief hour or so of hot sunshine before hopping back into the Jeep for our drive back to our campground.
We could not tarry, because we had a date at the Shore Club, a world-famous former dance hall in Hubbards, for an "all you can eat" Lobster Supper. Technically, a diner is served only one lobster --
-- but the "all you can eat" applies to the salad -- AND to the mussels!
Santé!
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