A Tale of Two Hikes

Hi Blog!

After yesterday's long driving day, we decided that Sunday, June 10, 2018, would be a hiking day. We picked two hikes that were closest to us in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. 

First up was the famous Skyline Trail. This is the most popular hike in the park. A dramatic headland cliff overlooks the rugged coast from the end of the trail. We got a nice early start to beat the crowds.

The trail guide promises moose, bald eagles, bears and numerous boreal birds. It didn't mention anything about bunnies, but on the way out to the headland, we ran into three different snowshoe hares. Now that winter is over, their white coats have given way to a more earthy color. However, they still keep their white booties.

As we hiked along, we were surprised to see this really large enclosure. It didn't make sense to us because the entire bottom part of the fencing was completely open. You could crawl right under, which Kathy demonstrated.

We later learned, that this type of fence is designed to keep moose out, but let other smaller creatures pass freely. (Sorry George and Nan Finlayson - no moose allowed!)

About 40 years ago, a spruce budworm outbreak destroyed large areas of mature spruce forest in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The death of these mature trees created a flush of new growth, primarily young birch, considered a winter delicacy for Cape Breton’s northern moose population. The moose started to nibble those trees to a point where the moose population became very healthy - too healthy.

With too many moose and lots of regrowing birch, they started impacting the lifespan of those growing trees to the point where the birch trees weren’t growing at all. So, in order to save this part of the forest, a moose fence was built. But, don't worry, there is still plenty for the moose to eat. In fact, this guy (or girl) seemed quite happy bedded down by the side of the trail. Can you spot the moose ears in this photo?

We soon left the boreal forest behind and got our first glimpse of the headland. That little island out in the distance is Cheticamp Island, where we are camped.

The trail description further indicates that you can enjoy an eagle's view of the Cabot Trail as it winds its way down the mountain and vehicles look like toys. Yep! That's the Cabot Trail, way down there.

As we reached the end of the viewing platforms, a small sign asked hikers not to proceed further, since Parks Canada is trying to protect the fragile environment. It was so tempting. You could see the trail wind its way all the way to the point. We believe in Leave No Trace - taking nothing but photographs and leaving nothing but footprints. Since our footprints could kill plants that would take hundreds of years to re-grow, we opted for this photograph instead.

As we hiked back from the edge, we met wave after wave of tourists. We did our best to share information on the moose we spotted. We even ran into a gentleman from Harrisburg proudly wearing his Philadelphia Eagles Super Bowl Champion cap! 

Kathy was disappointed she didn't find any Red Chairs along the hike. But no sooner did we begin our drive over to our second hike, than Kathy shouted - "Stop the car. Turn around. There's a Red Chair." There it was, hanging off the end of the scenic view of Cap Rouge.

After a picnic at the trailhead parking area for the Salmon Pools Trail, it was time to shoulder the packs and head out on another adventure. After spending the day high in the sky, we were looking forward to our walk along the valley of the Cheticamp River. Kathy set the waypoint for the trailhead on her GPS to make sure we could find our way back.

While we started our hike along the banks of the Cheticamp River, we soon turned inland to "cut the corner" and meet back up with the river further upstream. We soon found ourselves hiking in a maple and birch forest. 

Some of the older trees have given way to new growth. This old guy is still hanging on despite the numerous holes in his trunk.

We soon met back up with the river. We searched this pool for signs of Atlantic Salmon activity, but saw not a rise.

As we hiked further on, we discovered this old cabin.

We obviously were not the first visitors. Scraps of paper with little notes were left behind by prior hikers. The oldest we found were from 2016.

The Cheticamp River was once wide enough to smooth the pink granite on either side. Today, a small deep channel runs between the bedrock ledges. Kathy was careful not to get too close.

Once through the chute, the river widens again.

We continued our hike upstream. Kathy stopped to admire a rock slide. The trail maintenance in this area must have taken weeks.

We were warned at the trailhead that the last part of the hike was not open. Flash floods had washed away the trail. We encountered three fisherman on their way back downstream and they confirmed that the trail was impassable. We continued on to the turnaround point. On our way back, we stopped to watch the fishermen try their luck on one of the many pools.

The two trails we hiked today were so different. The Skyline was lofty and panoramic. Salmon Pools was green and lush. They both helped us better understand the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Tomorrow, we head over to the east side of the park. Stay tuned!