The original Navajo Bridge (on the left) was built from 1927. It is still open to pedestrian and equestrian use. Highway 89A now uses the new bridge (on the right) to take travelers from Bitter Springs to Jacobs Lake and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The new highway bridge was designed and constructed in 1994 using the same materials and construction techniques as the original (now pedestrian) bridge.
Walking across the original Navajo Bridge gave us a bird's eye view of the Colorado River below (looking north into the Glen Canyon).
After taking in the views and getting hiking ideas from the Park Rangers, we drove around the corner to the Lees Ferry Historic District. With Walking Guide in hand, we stepped back in time to 1910, when this part of Lees Ferry was alive with gold mining activity. There are a few sturdy stone structures which survived the numerous floods. Here is Charles J. Spencer's gold mining office.
Back in 1872, tucked away in this secluded part of northern Arizona, a modest ferry operation came into being. The Mormon Church was looking to expand its territory. They realized that a viable river crossing would support their mission. John D. Lee was appointed to a remote outpost at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers. Here the rivers create a short interruption in the canyon walls separating the geologic features of the Glen and Marble Canyons. Lees Ferry, as it became known, was the only spot for hundreds of miles in either direction where the canyon walls went from violently sheer to mildly sloping, enabling wagons and livestock to make it to the river's edge.
Returning forward in time to 1912, Mr. Spencer was under pressure from his Chicago investors to produce gold. To do that, he needed massive amounts of coal to fire up the steam engines, dredges and pumps. Huge boilers were brought in by ox team, the remnants of which can be seen along the banks of the river.
His investors came up with a plan to have a steamboat push an empty barge upstream, fill it with coal and then float the barge downstream to an energy-hungry market. Unfortunately, however, the doughty steamboat, fighting the currents of the Colorado upstream, used as much coal to go upstream to fetch coal as the barge could carry down. Thus, Mr. Spencer had very little, if any, coal left to sell. Useless, the steamboat was left tied to shore, never to be used again. No measurable gold was discovered and Mr. Spencer abandoned Lees Ferry around 1914. By 1915, high water left the steamboat stranded on the riverbank. Locals stripped the lumber from the upper decks. By the early 1920's, the hull sunk in the river. There is nothing much left to see today except part of the ship's boiler.
Railroads and automobiles marked the end of frontier travel, making the ferry operation an archaic form of transportation. The ferry made its final trip in 1928 when it capsized, killing three men in the process. Newly-constructed Navajo Bridge, crossing the river just a few miles south, made the ferry system a relic to a past way of life. When one door closes, another one opens.
The construction of the Glen Canyon Dam, completed in 1966, has forever changed this section of the Colorado River. The mighty Colorado is no longer a muddy silt-laden river subject to seasonal flooding. The dam now controls the flow. Because the dam stops the river's flow at the lake, the sediment stays in Lake Powell and cold clear water is discharged below the dam. From a muddy river "too thick to drink and too thin to plow," the Colorado has become a popular trout fishing location.
Lee's Ferry, which lies below the Glen Canyon Dam, is also the starting point of most Grand Canyon float trips. We had fun watching the outfitters get their rafts ready for the next load of tourists.
Just up the Paria River from its confluence with the Colorado is the old Lee homestead. Lee was a practicing polygamist who built cabins for two of his families in what became known as "Lonely Dell" because of its remote location.
The Lonely Dell Farm had to be completely self-sufficient. Electricity didn't come to these parts until 1965! Just past the entrance gate is the start of the orchard. The National Parks Service still maintains the trees here and when fruit is in season, it is free for the picking. Unfortunately, we were a little too late to benefit from this year's harvest.
Each subsequent ferry operator added to the ranch. The original Lee buildings were torn down and rebuilt. Here are a couple of cabins built by the second operator - the Johnson family.
In 1935, the ranch was purchased by Leo Weaver and his wife Hazel. They hired a Hopi Indian by the name of Poli Hungavi, to build the “Paradise Canyon Ranch.” The Weavers operated the ranch as a lodge, and provided boarding. They only stayed for four years before signing it over to Essy Bowers, who in turn sold the property to Gus and Romona Griffin the following year. The property was then turned over to the National Park Service in connection with the creation of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
We hiked further up the Paria River Canyon and came across Picture Window Cabin. This small cabin with a huge picture window was used by the caretaker of the ranch to keep an eye on the ranching operation when the owners were away.
As with many farm operations, when equipment dies, it usually stays where it last served.
Numerous owners tried in vain to dam the Paria River and use the water to irrigate their fields. You can still see the remnants of the irrigation system running along the left canyon wall. The paths next to the irrigation system are now used by hikers who traverse the Paria Canyon Trail over 37 miles northwest to Highway 89 near Kanab, Utah.
On our walk back to the truck, we happen to spot a short horned lizard. Never saw this species before. He looked a bit like a horny toad, but scampered like a lizard!
On our drive back out Lees Ferry Road, we stopped at the balanced rocks. Dave was feeling a little uncomfortable waiting for me to take this photo. Can't imagine why.
This guy seemed to have lost his balance and just barely tipped over.
If you are in the Page area, or traveling east or north from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry makes a great little day trip.
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